Call us 24/7+254 700 031 732

Universal Joint (U-joint) Replacement

In rear wheel-drive cars, a driveshaft is needed for the tires to rotate. The driveshaft transfers the power from transmission to the rear tires, enabling them to turn. U-joints hold the drive shaft in place. If the U-joints are not lubricated, the bearings inside the U-joints will wear out over time and the drive shaft will begin to vibrate, while the car is moving. You will feel vibration in the seat or throughout the car. You may also hearing clunking or banging noise when you put the car in a gear.

 

It is best to replace all U-joints at the same time, even if only one is broken. | If the height of your vehicle has been modified, the U-joints are more likely to give out.

 

Jack up the back side of the car. | Remove the drive shaft. | Remove and replace the U-joints.

 

A mechanic should lubricate the U-joints during regular maintenance service. Doing so will greatly improve the life of the U-joints.

 

U-joints are responsible for holding the driveshaft in place. Since the driveshaft transfers power from the transmission to the wheels, it receives a lot of force, and it depends on the U-joints to help it stay sturdy and in place. When the U-joints break, the driveshaft has nothing holding it in place, and so it vibrates heavily, which not only is detrimental to the driveshaft’s health, but also results in a very bumpy ride.

Wheel Bearings Replacement

A wheel bearing assembly consists of rolling elements, such as hardened steel ball bearings or roller bearings, that roll on and around hardened steel bearing races. The wheel bearings support the front and rear axle, and all the weight of your car. Wheel bearings are made with a high-precision technique using extremely hard steel in order to withstand all the normal impacts that occur to the wheel and tire assembly as you drive along the road. When to replace wheel bearings? Growling or grinding noise from a wheel. Failed or failing wheel bearings make a very characteristic growling noise which will grow louder as the bearing wear progresses. If you believe the wheel bearing noise is coming from one side of the car, you can self-diagnosis your wheel bearing as you drive the car by loading and unloading vehicle weight You can do this by “swerving” from side-to-side. For example, if the noise markedly increases when you swerve to left, which shifts the vehicle’s weight to the right, then it often indicates the wheel bearing on the right is failing. Axial or radial play in the wheel or wheel hub. Should the wheel hub move up and down or in and out, the bearing may be worn. Vibration in the steering wheel or vehicle body and/or wandering. Vibration and lack of directional stability could be consequences of loose or worn out wheel bearings. Tire and wheel assembly does not turn smoothly. With the wheel jacked up, and the car not in gear, the wheel should rotate smoothly. Rough or inconsistent movement, which is often accompanied by noise, can signify damaged bearings. Be sure the brakes are not dragging as you perform this check. How do mechanics replace wheel bearings? The complexity of wheel bearing replacement varies greatly depending on the vehicle make, model, year, the wheel position (front versus rear), and the drive type (AWD versus FWD): On vehicles with unitized wheel bearing/hub assemblies, the brake rotor and caliper are removed. The large axle nut is removed, the axle is pushed back through the center of the unitized hub assembly, and three (or more) bolts holding the hub assembly to the steering knuckle are removed. The hub assembly is then removed from the knuckle. On installation of the new hub assembly to the knuckle, the bolts are torqued to the factory specification. In many cases, it is required to discard the old axle nut and replace with a new one. Special attention must be given to tightening the axle nut to the exact factory specification because over or under-tightening can damage the newly installed bearing. All YourMechanic professionals use calibrated torque wrenches on these critical fasteners. Finally, the brake rotor and brake caliper are re-attached, the wheel installed and the car is road tested. On vehicles where the wheel bearing is pressed into a cavity within the steering knuckle, the steering knuckle must be removed from the vehicle in order to press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing. On some vehicles, the wheel bearing is pressed onto an axle shaft and thus the axle must be extracted from the axle carrier. This will apply to certain trucks. Is it safe to drive with a wheel bearing problem? No. Wheel bearing failure is usually gradual, although in some cases it starts immediately after the dramatic impact of the wheel and tire assembly with a deep pothole. Wheel bearings can sometimes make noise for quite some time before you experience a catastrophic failure that would result in complete separation of the wheel and tire assembly from the axle. Generally, the risk of sudden failure increases with the noise level. But strictly speaking, once the bearing has started to fail it is impossible to predict exactly when it will fail completely. So it should not continue to be driven. Were a failing bearing to seize or break while you are moving, you could experience loss of control of the vehicle. Once you receive a conclusive diagnostic that a wheel bearing has failed, replace the bearing promptly. When replacing wheel bearings, keep in mind: If the car has a substantial number of miles on the failed bearing (100,000 miles or more), it is a good idea to replace both bearings (driver and passenger) on the axle at the same time. Wheel bearing noise can be confused with tire noise from defective tires. In difficult cases, a mechanic will apply remote wireless microphones at all 4 wheel positions, and then drive the car while listening to a remote receiver, switching between wheel positions to pinpoint the location of the failed bearing.

 

 

 

 

Power Steering Pump Pulley Replacement

Like many other systems on your vehicle, your power steering operates on pressurized fluid, and the power for pressurizing that fluid is delivered by the engine. Depending on the year, make and model, your car may have a single drive belt, or two belts. In both situations, a belt will operate the power steering pump via a pulley. The belt runs around the pulley, and spins it while the engine operates. When the engine is off, the pulley remains still and the pump does not work. As with any other pulley in the engine, the power steering pump pulley relies on a bearing to ensure that it operates correctly. Heat and friction will wear the bearings out and they will eventually need to be replaced. There are other instances that could cause problems with the power steering pump pulley, including serious auto accidents that bend or even break the pulley.

 

Power steering pump pulley and belt operation should be checked at regular maintenance (oil changes). | Bearing failure is the most common power steering pump pulley problem. | A broken belt can cause your power steering system to malfunction. | The belt can brake if bearings seize.

 

The hood is opened and the serpentine belt is removed | The power steering pulley is removed with a pulley puller | The new power steering pulley is installed using a pulley installer | The serpentine belt is installed and pulley alignment is checked | The engine is run and the power steering system operation is checked

 

Without an operational power steering pump pulley, your entire power steering system will be inoperable. The most common cause of problems here is wear and tear to the pulley bearing. The pulley will need to be removed, the old bearing pulled out, and a new bearing installed. Because of the importance of this system, we recommend having any power steering system problems be diagnosed by one of our expert mechanics.

 

Some power steering systems aren’t as critical as others, but this one plays an important role in the drivability of your vehicle. If you notice any of the symptoms above, or suspect there’s a problem with the pulley or the bearing, you should have the system inspected immediately.

Wheel Stud Replacement

Wheel studs are high-strength, threaded steel fasteners that securely hold the wheel and tire assembly to the axle hub. Typically, there are 4 to 6 studs per wheel pressed or threaded into the wheel hub. The wheel and tire assembly is mounted on the hub centering ring and the studs protrude from the hub through the wheel mounting holes. Lug nuts are threaded onto the studs to securely hold the wheel to the hub. When to consider replacing wheel studs: Wheel is loose or wobbling. The wheel and tire assembly must be held evenly and securely to the wheel hub by the lug nuts attached to the studs. If the lug nuts are not tightened securely, it can cause the wheel to vibrate, loosen and wobble, which can damage or even break the wheel studs and lug nuts, potentially causing the wheel to separate from the vehicle. Missing or broken studs, or damaged threads. If the stud is missing or broken, the lug nut attached to the stud will be missing and the wheel will hold securely. When the threads on the stud are worn, rusted away, or otherwise damaged, the lug nut may not achieve the required torque and could come loose while driving. Stud turns in place when fastening lug nut. When the stud spins in the wheel hub while tightening, it should be replaced. During replacement, the mounting hole in the wheel hub should be inspected for damage. How do mechanics replace wheel studs? The car is raised and supported on steel jack stands. The wheel and tire assembly, brake rotor, and caliper are removed. On vehicles where there is sufficient access at the back of the wheel hub, a compact tool is used to press the defective stud out of the hub. On vehicles where there is no access to use a compact stud remover, the wheel hub must be removed. When the hub must be pressed out of the steering knuckle, the wheel bearing is typically replaced in the process of removing the hub. Sometimes, the entire hub and bearing assembly with the studs included can be replaced. The new stud or studs are pressed into position from the back of the hub, the brake caliper and rotor are reinstalled, and the wheel is placed onto the studs. The wheel lug nuts are tightened to the factory specifications. Is it safe to drive with wheel stud problems? No, but you can temporarily drive a vehicle at low speeds and for short trips with one missing wheel stud. However, if more than two studs are broken, it is recommended to repair the car prior to further use. Having all wheel studs in place with evenly tightened lug nuts prevents distortion of the brake rotor. Over longer periods, missing studs can damage the brake rotor, the wheel, and the remaining studs. A car may vibrate when driving with missing wheel studs and can cause the other studs or lug nuts to loosen. This can lead to the wheel separating from your tire while driving. When replacing wheel studs keep in mind: Wheel studs are made of high-strength steel. If a stud has broken, it is typically due to previous overtightening. Lug nuts should be tightened using a calibrated torque wrench or a torque limiting device. Published torque values assume that studs are dry, clean, and free of all lubricants. Oil, grease, anti-seize or any similar compound should not be applied to the threads of a wheel stud or lug nut. Should a vehicle require removal of the wheel hub to add a new wheel stud, studs on the hub should be replaced. However, only defective studs need to be replaced if there is access from the back of the hub. Lug nuts should be tightened in a star or crisscross pattern specified by the original equipment manufacturer in order to avoid warping of the brake rotor or drum as well as damaging the wheel.

 

 

 

 

Power Steering Pump Replacement

The power steering pump is a belt-driven or electric-driven hydraulic pump that generates the hydraulic pressure needed to provide power steering assist. It develops output pressures of 1,000 PSI or more. The pump output is directed to the steering gear, often a rack and pinion type unit, where the hydraulic pressure pushes on the steering rack, greatly reducing the effort it would otherwise take to turn the steering wheel. When to consider replacing the power steering pump: Groaning or whining noise when turning. Noise can occur if there is wear on the pump bearings or impeller vanes. A low fluid level or trapped air can also cause noises. If the pump has already been operating while dry, adding fluid may not resolve the noise and replacement of the pump might be necessary. Power steering fluid leaks. Leaks can develop at pump seals, threaded connections, hoses, or on the steering rack and pinion unit. Pump seal leaks will generally require a replacement. Difficult steering. Should you notice it is harder to turn the steering wheel, it might mean the power steering pump output pressure is too low, or there could be blockages in the pump or lines. Damage to the pump pulley. Should the pump pulley become damaged or is loose on the pump shaft, you might detect vibration, drive belt damage, or hard steering. Either the pulley will have to be serviced or the pump assembly replaced. How do mechanics replace the power steering pump? If driven by a drive belt, the power steering pump is bolted to the engine via a bracket that allows for adjustment of the pump drive belt. Once the engine is cold, and safe to work on, the drive belt is removed. If driven by an electric pump, the pump may be mounted in conjunction with the steering shaft or in conjunction with the steering rack. With either a drive belt or electric pump, removal of any dash, panel, or steering components is performed to access the pump. The threaded connectors to the pump inlet and outlet are loosened and removed. Any mounting bolts and brackets are removed so the pump can be removed. If the old pump has failed catastrophically, or there is reason to suspect contaminants in the power steering hoses, the system is flushed. The new pump is bolted on, the pressure and return hoses attached and the system is bled of all air. If pump is belt-driven, it is tightened to the manufacturer’s specification. Finally, the engine is run and the car is road tested to confirm normal steering effort. If a new drive belt was installed, belt tension is measured again, and adjusted as needed, after the belt has run for a few minutes. Is it safe to drive with a power steering pump problem? No. If the power steering pump is operated without an adequate amount of fluid, and the pump reservoir will not hold fluid due to a large leak. The pump could seize, which would snap the serpentine belt and likely leave you stranded. If the pump turns and there is adequate fluid, but there is no power assist, it will require much greater effort to turn the steering wheel, and that presents inherent safety risks. Generally, the wisest course is to seek immediate repairs if you suspect a problem with any component in your car’s power steering system. When replacing the power steering pump keep in mind: Any belts driving the pump should be inspected and replaced as needed. The pump will only produce the required hydraulic pressure if it is driven by the belt at an adequate speed. Power steering leaks from aged rubber hoses, particularly where the rubber is crimped to the steel tube, are not unusual and should be carefully inspected. The system operates under high pressure. The fluid is flammable, and if leaking fluid happens to contact a hot engine part, a fire might result. You always want to be sure the hoses and connections are sound.

 

 

 

 

Shock Absorber Replacement

Shock absorbers are attached to the vehicle body and suspension components. They are used to absorb road shock, providing a smooth ride. Most cars made after 1995 have shock absorbers in the back wheels and strut assembly in the front. Older cars and trucks may have shock absorbers at all four wheels. Shock absorbers are basically cylindrical containers filled with gas or liquid. They are mounted from the suspension to the frame of the car. When you drive over a bump, the pistons inside the shocks move up and down against the liquid or gas. Shock absorbers take a beating day after day, especially on bumpy roads. The gas or liquid will eventually leak, resulting in an unstable or rugged ride. With worn shock absorbers, it is possible that the tires could lose contact with the road and/or wear out prematurely.

 

Shock absorbers are always replaced in pairs (either both front or both rear).

 

Verify that the shock absorbers are bad. | Remove and replace the faulty shock absorbers. | Inspect the suspension system for any other worn or damaged parts. | Test drive vehicle.

 

It is a good practice to replace the shock absorbers every 35,000 miles. You can easily find out if you need new shocks by doing a bounce test. Go to the rear corner of your car and push down on the rear of the car. If your car bounces up and down a few times, it is time to change the shock absorbers.

 

Shock absorbers exist at both rear wheels, and sometimes the front wheels as well. The shock absorbers attach the suspension to the body of your car, and feature pistons that are filled with gas or liquid. As your vehicle rides over the bumps and rough conditions of the road, the suspension is subject to a lot of shock. This shock moves the pistons, but the gas or liquid in the pistons helps absorb the impact, and lessen the shock that is then transferred to the body of the vehicle. As a result, the shock absorbers keep your ride relatively smooth and comfortable. When the shock absorbers malfunction or leak, they will be unable to absorb any of the shock from the road, and all of the impact on the suspension will be transferred to the body of the car. This not only makes for an uncomfortable ride, but can also cause damage to numerous different components in your vehicle.

Stabilizer Bar Bushings Replacement

Stabilizer bar bushings are rubber bushings designed to isolate the steel stabilizer bar from the vehicle frame and suspension. The stabilizer bar itself is typically connected to the lower control arms or another suspension component. Through a twisting action, the bar counteracts vehicle lean as you turn around a corner. Cars may be equipped with just a front stabilizer bar or both front and rear stabilizer bars. When to consider replacing stabilizer bar bushings: Knocking, clunking, grinding or squeaking noises. If a bushing has failed, the type of noise you hear depends on the location and extent of the failure. Complete loss of the bushing will cause metal-to-metal contact; you might hear clunking or grinding. If the bushing has dried out and is hard, you might hear squeaking. Visible physical damage. On visual inspection, the bushings may be cut, abraded, dislodged, loose, or even missing. How do mechanics replace stabilizer bar bushings? Raise and support the vehicle using steel safety stands Remove tire and wheel assemblies on both ends of the axle. Detach stabilizer bar bushing clamp, or stabilizer bar link, depending on the location of the bushing to be replaced. Often, if the stabilizer bushing to the vehicle frame mount is being replaced, the stabilizer bar must be completely detached at all links for there to be enough space to install the new frame bushings. Once all bushings and required hardware are replaced, the bushing mounts are tightened with a load on the suspension. If required by the service manual, this step ensures the bushings will be in an unloaded condition and not pinched when the vehicle is sitting at normal ride height. The vehicle is lowered and road tested to ensure normal cornering; meaning body lean within acceptable limits and without noise. Is it safe to drive with a stabilizer bar bushings problem? Yes. Although not a severe threat, aside from the likely presence of noise, operation at highway speeds when performing sudden maneuvers can be affected — especially if the vehicle is carrying a heavy load. Seek repair at your earliest convenience. When replacing stabilizer bar bushings keep in mind: The mechanic will inspect the stabilizer bar itself for corrosion, cracks and accident damage. Bushings are sold in pairs because it is recommended they be replaced in pairs. Always have all bushings inspected, including the bushings in the stabilizer bar links, even if just the stabilizer bar frame mount bushings are replaced. Removal and re-attachment of the stabilizer bar, and replacement of the bushings, normally has no effect on wheel alignment.

 

 

 

 

Stabilizer Bar Links Replacement

You may have heard stabilizer bar links referred to as anti-roll bars or sway bar links. Their purpose is to provide a stabilizing amount of structural support to protect you when you make aggressive turns. On a hard turn, you will feel body ‘roll’ occur where the vehicle weight leans toward the outside of the turn. The stabilizer bar links keep your vehicle from rolling over or leaning too much in a turn. They also ensure proper traction on all four tires. When they work properly, these links will keep you and your car stable by redistributing the entire car’s weight. If a stabilizer link is loose, you will hear a noise from under your vehicle. If the link breaks, the noise will likely go away, but you will experience handling problems and excessive body roll.

 

Stabilizer links are often referred to as sway bar links.

 

The vehicle front wheels are straightened and the vehicle is lifted and supported on jack stands | The defective stabilizer bar links are removed | The new stabilizer bar links are installed | The vehicle is removed from jack stands | The vehicle is started and checked for steering stabilizer bar links operation

 

Stabilizer links will likely have to be replaced more than once during your vehicle’s operating life. They should be inspected on comprehensive services as well as anytime a wheel alignment or suspension work is performed. If a stabilizer bar link is loose or broken, have it replaced by one of our expert mechanics.

 

The stabilizer bar links on your car prevent body roll, which in extreme circumstances can cause you to lose control of your vehicle. It is important that your sway bar links are intact, so have any broken links replaced right away.

Steering Damper Replacement

Your steering and suspension system is a complex combination of different components. One of those components is the steering damper, or the steering stabilize (if you’re more familiar with that particular term). Regardless of what you call it, the part does the same thing. Its job is to stabilize the steering wheel, while mitigating travel (back and forth rotation while driving over bumps in the road) and vibration from the wheels and suspension system. The steering damper works on the same principle as your struts and shocks, and like your struts and shocks, will eventually wear out and need to be replaced. When it does wear out and fail, you’ll notice that the vehicle’s handling becomes “sloppy”, and there’s a great deal more vibration transmitted to the wheel during driving.

 

It’s a good idea to have the rest of your steering system inspected when the steering damper is replaced. | Bushings, links, grommets and other components also wear out over time, and replacing them with the damper can save you an additional providing substantially improved handling. visit from the mechanic, as well as

 

The vehicle is raised and supported on jack stands | The defective steering damper is removed from the steering linkage and frame | The new steering damper is installed and connected to the steering linkage and frame | The steering is exercised to make sure it operates smoothly without binding | The vehicle is removed from jack stands and road tested for proper steering operation

 

Bear in mind that it’s impossible to inspect your steering damper during normal maintenance, so it’s important that you pay attention to the changes in your vehicle’s steering and handling. If you begin to notice that your car’s steering wheel feels loose or sloppy, that it travels back and forth a great deal over even minor bumps, or that the car is hard to steer, consider having your steering damper replaced.

 

While your car will still be drivable without a working steering damper, it can be uncomfortable and difficult to drive. This poses a safety risk, so replacing your steering damper when it fails (or begins to fail) is pretty important. However, this is a delicate task requiring a significant amount of knowledge regarding the complex steering system in your car. As such, we highly recommend that you only allow a professional mechanic to replace the steering damper.

Steering Rack/Gearbox Replacement

A rack and pinion system uses several large components. This includes your main-shaft, universal joints, and an underlying intermediate shaft which immediately responds to all your steering wheel movements. This rack and pinion system is designed to make your car’s steering easier to turn with the added help of a power assisted pump or motor. The typical car sold these days now weighs over 3000 pounds and larger vehicles like trucks and SUVs often weigh over 5000 pounds. The steering rack along with this power assist system are what allow you to easily move all that heavy mass between the steering wheel and your tires without so much as breaking a sweat.

 

The steering rack requires heavy and sometimes sophisticated equipment to operate properly. Many of the big and heavy parts that are underneath your vehicle, such as the shafts and universal joints, can gradually wear out over the course of time. If you feel your steering is tight, chances are your rack is perfectly fine. It’s when your steering feels sloppy, or when you start seeing power steering fluid underneath your vehicle, that an inspection should be done. Also, keep in mind that damage to major suspension parts, such as your CV axles, ball joints, and tie rod ends, can make your steering feel loose and uneven. This is why it’s a good idea to have your entire steering and suspension system inspected whenever you suspect that there is an issue with your steering.

 

The vehicle is raised and supported on jack stands | The tires are removed and tie rods and steering gear disconnected | The steering rack and gear box is replaced | The system is filled with new fluid, tires reinstalled | The vehicle is lowered off of the jack stands

 

If your steering starts to feel clunky or uneven, get it inspected at the earliest possible opportunity. Even a minor issue, such as a cracked seal in between major components, can leak power steering fluid onto your steering rack. This can lead lead to the deterioration or even the complete failure of your steering rack. It’s worth your time to contact one of our top-rated mechanics so that the quickest and most reasonable solution can be pursued for your steering system.

 

Steering is one of those aspects of driving that you never want to shortchange. Often times, a small issue can be due to little more than a leaking power steering hose or a malfunctioning power steering pump. These both tend to be far less expensive repairs than a steering rack. However, if your steering rack is in need of replacement the consequences of ignoring it can be dire. The worst accidents tend to happen due to the loss of control on a vehicle and your steering rack is the one component that enables your steering to remain precise. If your steering is giving you trouble, it’s important to address it promptly.

Search for products

Back to Top
Product has been added to your cart